A Complete Guide to the Testaccio Neighbourhood and Its Market in Rome
I’ll let you in on a little secret: if I would ever, hypothetically, change houses again in Rome, I would love to end up in Testaccio. Whenever I come to this neighbourhood, I just feel at peace. The people are nice, the food is great, the vibes are vibing, and there’s an overall sense of community in the area. In this blog post, I’ll share my favourite spots in Testaccio, hoping to inspire and excite you to visit this amazing part of Rome.
A short history of Testaccio Neighbourhood
The Testaccio neighbourhood is located along the Tiber River, not far from Circo Massimo and the popular neighbourhood Trastevere. The history of the neighbourhood dates all the way back to ancient Rome, when it was a busy port and commercial hub. Over time, it became a working-class area, home to labourers and tradesmen.
While Testaccio underwent a major transformation, shifting from its industrial roots to a trendy, sought-after neighbourhood, it still feels like an authentic area. The combination of authentic charm and a lively, cultural atmosphere makes it a beloved spot for both the local community and visitors who appreciate its rich history.
How to get to Testaccio
Getting to Testaccio is super easy. If you prefer to travel by bus, you can take bus 170 from Termini. Personally, I always opt for the metro. To get to Testaccio, take metro line B and get off at the "Piramide" stop. From there, it's just a short walk to the Testaccio neighbourhood.
Salita Monte De Cocci
While we're still on the history train, I want to introduce an iconic spot in Testaccio: Monte De Cocci. This artificial hill has a fascinating place in the neighbourhood's past. First off, it's important to understand that the name "Testaccio" comes from the Latin word testa, meaning a potsherd or broken piece of pottery. And guess what? The Monte De Cocci is literally made of these potsherds.
Monte De Cocci is entirely composed of ancient broken amphorae, large earthenware pots once used to transport goods like olive oil to Rome’s busy river harbour. As the city expanded, the Romans needed a way to dispose of the massive amounts of these discarded amphorae. The solution? A giant outdoor dump. Once these vessels were no longer useful, they were taken out of storage, smashed, and tossed onto the growing pile.
And how many broken amphorae are we talking about? I have read numbers as high as 53 million fragments, all collected on this hill. While I initially was very excited to explore this peace of history, I didn’t do my research correctly, because without a prior made appointment, you cannot enter the archaeological area of the hill. I still thought it would be nice to inform you of this piece of history, because it is very important to the neighbourhood! Indeed, because of this giant hill, the amphora has become Testaccio's symbol.
Piazza Testaccio
My favourite spot in Testaccio is Piazza Testaccio. For me, it feels like the heart of the neighbourhood, a place where you can truly experience the sense of community. At the centre of the square is the beautiful Fontana dell'Amphora, a fountain made from amphorae that directly references Monte de Cocci!
Surrounding the square are some stores and plenty of benches, and with the stunning trees, it’s a peaceful place to read, meet up with friends, or simply admire the local life in Testaccio.
Testaccio market
No visit to Testaccio is complete without stopping by its iconic market. To me, this market is everything you want: lively, hectic, packed with amazing food, a huge variety of products, and the kind of exciting vibes that just make you want to stay longer. Saturdays are especially vibrant, last time I went, there was even live music playing!
If you’ve read my previous blog post about my favourite sandwiches in Rome, you already know my top sandwich spot is here in this market. But honestly, the entire food section is fantastic. I wish I could transfer the smell through the screen, it’s the kind that hits you and instantly makes you hungry!
Alici fritte - Fried anchovies
Beyond the food stalls, there’s so much to explore: fresh produce, clothes, shoes, gifts, handmade products, kitchenware, you name it. I even came across a stall dedicated entirely to vegan products, which was such a cool find! Wandering through the Testaccio market feels like a treasure hunt; you never know what little gem you’ll stumble upon. Personally, I always end up getting lost, but I’ve come to embrace it, it’s just part of the fun.
Mattatoio
Another spot you absolutely cannot miss in Testaccio is the Mattatoio, the neighbourhood’s former slaughterhouse turned cultural hub. Yes, you read that right, what was once a massive industrial complex is now a really cool space for art, events, and exhibitions.
The Mattatoio di Testaccio is a great example of industrial architecture that still keeps the originality of its structure. Even if you’re not visiting an exhibition, it’s still fun to take a walk around the grounds.
What I love most about the Mattatoio is that a lot of the cultural events and exhibitions are free admission! (The Dutchie in me loves this.) It just makes it feel so easy and accessible to visit. I’d recommend checking their website to see the calendar and find something that interests you!
Citta dell’Altra Economia
Located right next to the Mattatoio is the Città dell’Altra Economia, a spot that stands out from the rest of this list because it’s more of an event space. It hosts exhibitions, markets, sales, meetings, and training sessions, all with a unique focus on sustainability and ethics.
What makes this project so interesting is that, according to their website, the Città dell’Altra Economia is one of the first spaces in Europe entirely dedicated to promoting sustainable and ethical economic practices. These practices emphasize low environmental impact, fair distribution of value, and a people-and-planet-first approach. Every event they organize is built around these principles.
I went to a fantastic vegan food festival here with a friend, and they also host a Christmas market! It’s the kind of place that has this creative, innovative energy that I really love. I’d definitely recommend following them on Instagram to stay updated on their upcoming events, exhibitions, and more.
Conclusion
I hope that after reading this article, you’ll understand why I love Testaccio so much. For me, it feels like the perfect balance between a historic, authentic place and a creative, innovative area. Plus, the food is amazing, and I still have so many places left to explore! Have you visited Testaccio? I’d love to hear your thoughts and favourite spots—let’s chat in the comments below!
